by Michael Swisher (@michaelswisher)10/24/2019 9:48:30 AM
posted in: Skordle Sampler | 2,201 views
By Jared Robison
Guest Contributor Foodie Unafraid of a Little Garlic
“Where is the best Italian food you’ve ever eaten?”
When asked this question, most people likely wouldn’t assume that answer to be Oklahoma City.
But, I stand by my strong opinion that Gabriella’s Italian Grill and Pizzeria is the best.
Anywhere.
Period.
I am including Italy and coast to coast across the country…. for this Oklahoma born-and-bred Red Dirter…it’s the tops. Sure, it might be a little heavy for some diners’ liking and the servings might be a little robust for a lesser human. But, if I want to leave a dining experience completely and totally satisfied, emanating butter and garlic fumes for days, Gabriella’s, located at 1226 NE 63rd St., is where I am headed.
Anyone who calls themselves a true Oklahoma foodie knows the story of the Italian wonderment of Krebs, Okla.
In 1895, the Giacomo family migrated from the Castiglione region of Italy to Oklahoma, where, in 1953, their descendants began serving traditional Italian cuisine in a “relaxed, family environment” in Krebs in restaurants like Isle of Capri.
Fast forward to 2003 when Chef Vicki of the Giacomo family took her talents to South Padre Island and opened the original Gabriella’s. Six years later, another move landed Gabriella’s in Oklahoma City, occupying the old Kentucky Club.
Built in 1938, the Kentucky Club’s history rightly deserves a blog of its own. Let’s just suffice it to say that the former gambling den, dance hall and speakeasy is now the perfect backdrop for an enjoyable family dining experience.
Once you decide that an evening at Gabriella’s is in your future, do yourself a favor — take a few, long, hard looks at the menu online before you show up. At least familiarize yourself with the direction you might head, because once you enter the building and the overwhelming aroma of lovingly prepared Italian food hits your senses, you won’t know which way is up.
If you decide to forego the preview peak, let me help you out…
Before you start ordering, know this: You will likely overeat on perfectly buttered and toasted bread served with beautifully candied, crunchy garlic swimming in olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
Opt for the side salad. Yes, it does cost a few bucks per person, but it is wonderfully simple and you’ll need it to satisfy your veggie quota for the evening.
Order more bread and load up on the dipping accoutrements as you will want them to sop up any remaining pasta sauce.
Start with the lamb fries. Admittedly, this is a selfish order, as I know that the wives in our dining group will likely forego these delicious morsels of absurd goodness; thus, allowing me to over-indulge.
The zuppli are also spectacular – parmesan risotto balls bursting with Italian sausage and mozzarella cheese.
At this point, there are decisions to be made…important decisions that will likely determine if you will experience tablemate order envy. No one wants order envy; it can haunt you for days.
Ask the server (who is likely of SE Oklahoma descent and will shoot you straight) about the specials and any recommendations they might have. Here is where the rubber meets the road.
As someone who is inherently passionate about food preparation, ordering, menu perusing and eating, I have come to notice that Gabriella’s patrons typically fall into two categories: (1) Those who experiment, trying to taste everything the menu has to offer (i.e., my good friend Jayme Ross), or, (2) Those who know what they could be missing out on and stick with consistency (yours truly).
I always have great intentions of getting something new, of broadening my horizons and experiencing something foreign and wonderful. Then, the panic sets in.
What if I don’t love it as much as my go-to order? What if my standby menu item is suddenly no longer on the menu? What if this is my last time to ever enjoy one of my favorite dishes on the planet?
I feel like I am watching myself order while floating outside my own body, a knee-jerk reaction that I have no control of! The server acknowledges me, and without hesitation, out it comes: “Coal Miner’s Spaghetti, please.”
Of the estimated 50 times I have eaten at Gabriella’s, Coal Miner’s Spaghetti has likely accounted for 35 or so of my orders. I do not regret it, and I will not apologize.
It is delicious. It is magical. It makes me happy.
This is Gabriela’s take on a traditional carbonara, with pecan-smoked bacon, peas, garlic and Romano cheese topped with a sunny side up egg. Once the egg is broken, and everything mixed together, this bowl of spaghetti turns into an experience that you will relive for days on end.
Although I could wax poetic on this singular plate of food for many paragraphs, I will do my best to explore some of the other favorites that I have been able to discover.
My second favorite Gabriella’s offering is the Baked Ziti. While it no longer appears on the standard dinner menu, if the stars align, Chef Vickie might just whip it up for you.
Just make sure to politely ask your server of its availability and do NOT mention that I was the one who tipped you to this phantom mystic.
The Five Layer Lasagna is another one of those orders that finds its way to the top of many people’s list. My dad doesn’t even open the menu; he is going with the lasagna. This dish packs enough cheese to make you rethink some of your life decisions, but it will not leave you wanting.
Don’t even get me talking about Dominic’s Truffle Fried Chicken. The $22 half-chicken that is quartered and served with a side of garlic-whipped potatoes and white truffle gravy is an ideal order if you are thinking ahead to next day leftovers.
The irony of quite possibly the best fried chicken I have ever had being served at an Italian restaurant is not lost on me. It’s just that good.
The Jalapeno Garlic Snapper and Cioppino Stew are both sensational seafood options and excellent choices if you are thinking of actually accomplishing something after dinner.
The Tuscan Pork Chop might very well be the most eye appealing plate to strut out of the kitchen. This double-bone, French-cut pork chop is nothing short of edible artwork.
Momma’s Italian Meatloaf and the Bucatini Festival are my dark horse dishes. The former being exactly what you would expect and hope for in a perfectly prepared meatloaf, and the latter being a carnivorous spectacle with enough spice and carbs to make you want to get horizontal as soon as possible.
The pizza offering is robust and not something you will regret. My policy regarding Gabriella’s pizza is this: Pizza orders are meant for lunchtime and lunchtime only. I’m not sure exactly why I have mandated this as personal gospel, but I have…so there.
There have only been a couple of misses in all my Gabriella’s experiences and they have both been when I went the direction of the picatta, once with chicken and once with veal.
Both were a bit acidic for my taste, but that’s not to say others might not love it.
There is a stern warning that I must issue and Gabriella’s must feel the same since this acknowledgment is printed in their menu: Gabriella’s is heavy-handed on the garlic. And I mean HEAVY!
Don’t be surprised when family members and anyone else in your general vicinity notices the overwhelming cloud that can follow you for days. In my opinion, it’s a very small price to pay to experience all this place has to offer.
So…skip lunch, put on some stretchy pants and take advantage of one of Oklahoma City’s culinary treasures.